Can i see some pics of started hauberks?
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Joined: February 02, 2007
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Location: England

Can i see some pics of started hauberks?
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Posted on Wed Apr 04, 2007 10:55 am
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Hi its my first time making a hauberk and i want to make sure mines right. i made sort of like 2 rectangles that are joined together by a square. i wanna see what they look like when they are just started.

Joined: March 26, 2002
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Posted on Wed Apr 04, 2007 1:39 pm
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This is how I've started all my standard European 4 in 1 shirts- vest through hauberk (exceptions being 45 degree sleeves and mantle-style shirt).


This patch is a few inches wider at the back. It's a v-neck design, but that's not important, as one can always add more material around the neck afterwards.


There is no such thing as weave ownership. If someone produces a weave sample, they own that physical piece of mail, but not rights to the weave pattern itself.
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Posted on Wed Apr 04, 2007 3:07 pm
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i started with the soulder pieces and made them so they go down to under my arms and then used some ribbons of euro 4-1 to attach them together so then you have the top of your body going all the way around and then just keep adding ribbons of euro 4-1 untill you need to do the seam on the bottom

Joined: February 02, 2007
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Posted on Thu Apr 05, 2007 8:49 am
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ill take a picture of mine later, i discovered that i have a camera (just moved into my nans house)

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Posted on Fri Apr 06, 2007 5:04 am
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oh Dave, any hope of me getting a hold of that "ghetto" tutorial in its whole form? Razz i still want it.

or at least the origional measurements you included cuz they were a charm. but i can't remember what they were Confused

anyway, i guess you and I are exactly the same size cuz the numbers you had in there were perfect. Coif LoL


"By the manner of their death we shall know them."

Joined: February 02, 2007
Posts: 1084
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Location: England

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Posted on Fri Apr 06, 2007 8:01 am
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my camera aint workikng >.<


When i am measuring mys shirtm, i have got basically around the shoulder too, and the weave goes like this


)))))))))))))))))))))))))
(((((((((((((((((((((((((
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So if i were to pull the top and the bottom of one of the end sides of it the rings clsoe together , do i measure if its big enough by having the rings open?

Joined: March 26, 2002
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Posted on Fri Apr 06, 2007 6:30 pm
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vladmir wrote:
oh Dave, any hope of me getting a hold of that "ghetto" tutorial in its whole form? Razz i still want it.


I'll work on it bro.


There is no such thing as weave ownership. If someone produces a weave sample, they own that physical piece of mail, but not rights to the weave pattern itself.
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Posted on Sat Apr 07, 2007 7:35 am
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That's as the weave should lie, Sam. You'll be able to have a body barrel that fits you, and you'll be able to make the thing let go of you when you want out of it. Have you bookmarked Trevor Barker's gift to new shirtmakers everywhere in the English speaking world?

http://homepage.ntlworld.com/trevor.barker/farisles/guilds/armour/mail.htm

I'd join those two rectangles you spoke of, side by side, into one big futhermucker, making a rectangle wider than it is tall, with or without provisions for expansion. Expansion zones, Trevor Barker style (and historical style too), may be inserted into slits made in the body barrel for this purpose.

First time shirtmakers get bollixed up all the time from trying to make a shirt of a front panel and a back panel and folding the whole over the shoulders. It seems far less error prone to think horizontally: go around the torso with a body barrel made up essentially (ignoring tailoring for the nonce) of a single large rectangle brought around and closed into a tube. Then the shoulder section goes on top -- a modified-square thingie like in the pic above, or a Euro Modified Square ? la Barker, or other shoulder section such as Shoulder Straps, Four-Trapezoid, or a more complex-sectioned Yoketop, and the Mantletops.

Measurement of the mail is most consistent with the mail at full stretch. I recommend ten inches extra circumference at the chest, with the mail at its fullest stretch. At the waist, the shirt can be narrower, say waist plus ten or twelve. In a pullover shirt, the waist should not be made so tight you can't pull it on over yourself and any padding you're wearing, and the ten-inches extra is designed around a fighting shirt with an aketon/gambeson beneath. Mail needs slack to work, but too much slack means more weight than you need, so there's a bit of precision needed.

See also my article under Articles: Armor: Hauberks.


'The Minstrel Boy to the War is gone...'

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