Under the maille (not padding)
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Joined: October 29, 2003
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Under the maille (not padding)
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Posted on Thu Jul 08, 2004 4:53 pm
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whats up guys.

Anyways, i need something to wear under my maille shirt. I do not need padding as i dont do any type of combat where that would be needed (yet), and the padding would also get hot i imagine, and since its the middle of the summer and i'm in california, i want this to be as cool as possible.

I was wondering if anyone knows where i could get a pattern. I'm looking for a shirt that looks at least reasonably medievalish, and with long sleeves so i dont lose the sleeves in my armpit when i pull the maille shirt on. What fabric would be the best? Doesnt have to be the historically acurate fabric, but something similar but cheaper. I want a fabric that is somewhat heavy, but not too hot to wear, if thats possible.

If anyone can link me to a pattern, or even pics of something like i'm looking for it would be great. Sewing complexity is not much of a problem since there are like 10 diff sewing machines in my garage and i can get my dad or grandma to help me if i cant sew it myself.
What would be the most authentic looking way to close the front? I know buttons or zippers wont work. Maybe lacing? Or should it go on overhead? or overhead with lacing from the neckhole a little ways down?

I don't know what something like this is called so its hard to do a search.

Vlad


"The fool hath said in his heart, there is no God"
Psalm 14:1

"Evolution is unproved and unprovable. We believe it only because the only alternative is special creation, and that is unthinkable."
Sir Arthur Keith

"You might be a liberal if you don't trust honest Americans with automatic weapons, but you do trust the government with them."

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Some of my items are for sale on www.maillemarket.com , thank you.

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Posted on Thu Jul 08, 2004 5:33 pm
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I made an unpadded costume gambeson for my maille. All you need to do is make a T-tunic, cut it open down the front, and put on some ties to hold it closed, and you have an accurate garment, outside of the quilting. If you don't care too much about the "accurate" look, forget cutting it down the front and just wear it as is.

A T-tunic is simple. using any appropriate cloth (I found something called "weaver's cloth" that's perfect), cut a rectangle that is one half as wide as the total circumference of your chest plus several extra inches for slack and seams, and twice the length from your shoulder to your knee (don't worry if that seems too long, it will be quite a bit shorter when you are done).

Cut a hole bigger than your head offset from center toward one of the long ends by about four inches. This completes the torso of the tunic.

Now cut two more rectangles from the cloth, each as long as the distance from your underarm to your wrist, and as wide as the circumference of the widest part of your arm, plus an inch or two. These are the sleeves. Sew a short end of each of these onto the bigger rectangle at the center of each of its long edges, making a giant plus sign.

Now you turn the whole thing into a tunic by folding the entire plus sign in half along the center of the sleeves, and sewing the whole thing along the edges that now meet (except, of course, for the head hole, the bottom hem, and the ends of the sleeves). Then just hem the raw edges of cloth that are exposed, and turn the whole thing inside-out to hide the seams...


"The fact that a believer is happier than a skeptic is no more to the point than the fact that a drunken man is happier than a sober one."

— George Bernard Shaw
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Posted on Thu Jul 08, 2004 10:43 pm
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Thanks blaise, I think i might do that. Still if anyone has any other ideas go ahead and write i want to see what any other options might be. Does anyone have a pics of a finished tunic?

Blaise what is an accurate medieval length? You said to make it from shoulder to knees, but when all the sewing is done, where does it come too? About mid thigh? I think I want it to come to about there, like my haubergeon.

What kind of ties do you mean? just one string crisscrossing through the holes or separate strings tied to each other like shoe laces? What about splitting it in the front from the neckhole down about 7-10 inches and lacing that up?

This "weavers cloth," does anyone know what it might be sold as in a fabric store? Or what other fabric is good? I want some kind of heavish fabric.

Vlad


"The fool hath said in his heart, there is no God"
Psalm 14:1

"Evolution is unproved and unprovable. We believe it only because the only alternative is special creation, and that is unthinkable."
Sir Arthur Keith

"You might be a liberal if you don't trust honest Americans with automatic weapons, but you do trust the government with them."

"Those who cast the votes decide nothing, those who count the votes decide everything."
Stalin

Some of my items are for sale on www.maillemarket.com , thank you.

Joined: December 01, 2003
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Posted on Fri Jul 09, 2004 1:45 am
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I live in Arizona. Under my galvy mail I wear a sleeveless t-shirt in either grey or fleshtone. You know, a wife beater. Razz Under my stainless mail I wear nothing. When a breeze blows the mail seems to act like a radiator and keeps me cool....

~Erik

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Posted on Fri Jul 09, 2004 2:07 am
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I suppose my idea's kind of silly, but it's cheap and easy, so here it is. You could get a really big long sleeved pull-over cotton shirt from the thrift store for a few bucks, then just cut off any elactic part like the collar and the wrists. Cutting off the elastic would give it more of that loose-poofy-wavy look. You could even re-finish the edges with cotton strips from another old shirt or something.

Peace.

Mical.

Joined: October 29, 2003
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Posted on Fri Jul 09, 2004 5:27 am
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yea sleeveless could work since the short sleeves get stuck in armpits. Doesnt the maille stick to you if you where nothing under it tho, making it tough to take off a hauberk?

While we're on the subject, does anyone know what medeival pants are supposed to look like? Since i will be making the tunic I might as well get some accurate looking pants, because I want a to make a costume that looks at least sligthly medieval under maille. Not jeans and t-shirt.

Vlad


"The fool hath said in his heart, there is no God"
Psalm 14:1

"Evolution is unproved and unprovable. We believe it only because the only alternative is special creation, and that is unthinkable."
Sir Arthur Keith

"You might be a liberal if you don't trust honest Americans with automatic weapons, but you do trust the government with them."

"Those who cast the votes decide nothing, those who count the votes decide everything."
Stalin

Some of my items are for sale on www.maillemarket.com , thank you.

Joined: April 29, 2002
Posts: 3213
Submissions: 93
Location: Albany, New York

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Posted on Fri Jul 09, 2004 6:21 pm
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Big Vs Armory wrote:
Blaise what is an accurate medieval length? You said to make it from shoulder to knees, but when all the sewing is done, where does it come too? About mid thigh? I think I want it to come to about there, like my haubergeon.


"Accurate" is most likely about mid-thigh, just hidden or just showing at the tail of your hauberk. Unless you're really skinny, the breadth of your body should bring this design up that high, but you can always hem up a couple of inches as needed.

Quote:
What kind of ties do you mean? just one string crisscrossing through the holes or separate strings tied to each other like shoe laces? What about splitting it in the front from the neckhole down about 7-10 inches and lacing that up?


I just folded up six swatches of the cloth into strips, and sewed them that way, then attached them to the gambeson in pairs at either side of the split. I just tie them together to hold the whole thing in place.

I suppose lacing would work too, I didn't try it. You might need grommets to keep it from ripping the cloth...


"The fact that a believer is happier than a skeptic is no more to the point than the fact that a drunken man is happier than a sober one."

— George Bernard Shaw
___________________________________

Maille Code V1.0 T5.7 R5.1 Fhd MCu Wc Cd G2.03/.56 I9.75/3.25 Pn Dacdjs S97 CCi

Joined: October 29, 2003
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Posted on Fri Jul 09, 2004 9:47 pm
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Yea I though about the grommets for the lacing, its not a problem cuz my dad has some, but did they have grommets historically?

What about splits up the sides? Are those needed?

Vlad


"The fool hath said in his heart, there is no God"
Psalm 14:1

"Evolution is unproved and unprovable. We believe it only because the only alternative is special creation, and that is unthinkable."
Sir Arthur Keith

"You might be a liberal if you don't trust honest Americans with automatic weapons, but you do trust the government with them."

"Those who cast the votes decide nothing, those who count the votes decide everything."
Stalin

Some of my items are for sale on www.maillemarket.com , thank you.

Joined: April 20, 2004
Posts: 936
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Location: See Heisenberg\'s Uncertianty Principle

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Posted on Fri Jul 09, 2004 10:29 pm
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Grommets are historically accurate after ~1650. There is some evidence for them from the 1500's but that's still open to debate. You can couch the grommets to hide them, if you're doing it to meet costuming guidelines for a ren faire.


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Posted on Sun Sep 05, 2004 2:11 am
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if its just for undermaile, i would use a long tunic with sleeves, the tunic can be tailored to your liking with either a long or short style i.e. coming down to your knees with a split or regular t-shirt style ending just below the waist, to each his own, take your pic

-jenga


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Posted on Sun Sep 05, 2004 2:54 am
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i just recently finished making a tunic for sca use. when you do it in the "plus" style, may i suggest you make it so that it flares SLIGHTLY at the ends that are on your waist (thighs whatever)... also, do NOT make the underarms a straight 90 dedgree seam, because they will be really uncomfortable... put a little bit of a curve in there... just round out the angle a bit... it gives you more room.

i dont know about pants yet, though i will next week when i make them.


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