taking photos
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Joined: April 27, 2003
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Location: ACT, Australia

taking photos
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Posted on Mon May 19, 2003 6:12 am
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can anyone tell me what is the best way to take photos of my work pieces??

Joined: September 21, 2002
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Posted on Mon May 19, 2003 9:40 am
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mainly 2 ways Smile scanning with a scanner, taking pics with digital cameras(or if u like, the traditional camera..) i don't have a scanner, so i use a digital camera. but they sometimes come out rather fuzzy and out of focus if u take detailed pics


It is well-known that the body is made up of various elements, among these being iron. The reason we know the body has iron in it is because we can taste the iron in our blood. Therefore, it stands to reason that the iron in our blood will be drawn to the north, just as the iron needle on the compass is drawn to the north.

In order to make the body compass work, you must shut your eyes, so as not to confuse things, extend the right arm with the index finger pointing, then spin around three times to the left. When you stop, open your eyes, and you will discover that you are facing north.

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Margaret Weis & Tracy Hickman

Joined: April 17, 2003
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Location: Calgary, Alberta

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Posted on Mon May 19, 2003 10:24 am
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I've discovered to my dismay, that digital cameras have a very hard time focusing on things. However, I've remedied this by making a cradle for the camera that sits over a portion of my workbench, and I simply set it on self-timer, so that it has plenty of time to focus on a static spot, without worrying about shaky human hands. perfect pictures every time.

Joined: August 05, 2002
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Posted on Mon May 19, 2003 12:44 pm
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I have no problem takeing the pictuer the problem is getting the picture small enought to fit on a sight. Any ideas?

Lee


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Joined: March 11, 2003
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Posted on Mon May 19, 2003 9:35 pm
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hals7x..do you have any kind of paint program like photoshop or psp..? You can optimize file sizes in programs like those.
If you don't have a paint program..you can try some free ones on the web, here's a few:
http://www.spinwave.com/crunchers.html
http://www.netmechanic.com/accelerate.htm
http://www.cyberid.co.uk/crunchers.htm

and there are plenty of free trials out there...if you go to cnet downloads http://download.com ...just search "image optimizer" or "image optimization"... Smile


"I have no particular talent. I am merely inquisitive." -Albert Einstein
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Joined: August 05, 2002
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Posted on Mon May 19, 2003 11:17 pm
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Thanks Smile I shall have to try that.

Lee


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Joined: April 15, 2002
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Posted on Tue May 20, 2003 3:02 am
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Digital camera's as a rule, can have poor focus. This is because all digital cameras (yes, all) have very poor depth of focus. Something to do with the optics being focused on a microthin waffer. This means that if you take a picture of you standing in a room for example, you'll find that while you might be in focus just fine, the wall behind you is all fuzzy. All cameras have this to some degree, but digital cameras are by far worse than other picture-takers. You'll see this effect used sometimes intentionally in movies, for example.. A zoom focusing on woman in the foreground, and then them changing the target depth, her going out of focus, and then you see (previously blurred) two men at a caf? across the street who are watching her. You might also notice if you try in some places in a movie to look at something not the center of attention, you won't be able to make it out.

Another problem might just be that you don't know how to use your camera properly, or (less likely) your camera doesn't zoom properly. I doubt the latter, because how would a camera be on the market at all if it's incapable of focusing?

From what I've seen, most digital cameras have a light that beeps on to range-find whatever's in the middle of the picture, so it knows where to auto-focus. On a friend of mine's camera, if you turn the flash off, it also turns off the rangerfinder.

Also check your camera specs to see how much of an optical zoom, vs digital zoom you're using. Digital zoom is almost entirely useless from my experience.

There are other tricks to getting good photography. Metals (shiny ones in particular) are a very difficult material to photograph. One rule of thumb is that pictures always turn out better in natural light, outside. Though direct light is also bad because it causes glare, so what you want is the picture to be taken outside, yet in some long-distance shade.

I had a bit of a beginners tutorial to photographing knives (same kind of problems), and how to best photograph them.. *digs around*..

http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php?s=21f78f89ecfb22b120e82656486ae895&threadid=220345&highlight=focus+depth <-- That should work.

The tutorial is spread over the first 3 or so posts.

...If your problem isn't photography itself....

If your images are too big, and you don't want to use any of those tools or programs that Armoured Raven just mentioned, just open up the image in MSpaint. (Or, run MSpaint, and then open the file from within. Paint does more than just bitmaps now, it does gifs and jpgs if you didn't know).

Once it's open, go to the "Image" menu at the top. (File, Edit, View, Image, etc etc). Select "Stretch/Skew." It'll pop up with a little window. What you want to do is stretch it. (Or squash it). Just punch in a smaller than 100% for both vertical and horizontal stretching. For example, 50% Vert, 50% Horiz. Then the image will be squished to half as long, and half as high.

Ignore the skewing part, that's for warping your image into a parallelagram. Just click "Okay."

It should take affect immediately.

Save it as a *DIFFERENT FILE*. Don't just hit save, or it'll overwrite your previous one. You'll probably want to keep the original. You can also screw up an image by stretching it, or want a different size, and then you won't have the original to work from anymore.

For example, if you stretch (squash) it to 50% in both dimentions.. and then go back and stretch it to 200% in both dimentions, you'll end up with an image that is the same size as the original, with the same borders, but the problem will be that when you squished it, you lost data, and then the program had to guess at what to fill in when it expanded.

For that same reason, you'll probably want to stick to easy percentages. 50% is a good one, 66%, 33%, 25%, and 75%. Maybe 20/40/60/80% as well, but I wouldn't push it much more than that. You'll lose a lot of sharpness if the program has to figure out how, (for example if you put 87%) to then drop only 13 pixels for every hundred. It can't do this easily (on top of which MSpaint is one of the worst image manipulators in existance).. so it won't come out as nice. See if some nice neat percentage comes out better. Chances are you're not aiming for some specific size target, just a visible ballpark.

Also, if you shrink it to 50%, and then decide that was a little too small, and you would've preffered 66%.. don't just go re-stretching until you get it right. Never do more than 1 stretch on an image. ALWAYS START WITH THE ORIGINAL. To save some time, "CTRL-Z" is the hotkey for undo. Tap that once, and you should get the original image back, and are safe to try again.

Hope that helped everyone.

Joined: January 31, 2003
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Posted on Tue May 20, 2003 5:30 am
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I find that using a heavy piece of non-shiny black fabric as a backdrop helps, as well as making sure that the piece is well lit from behind me so there's no screwy reflections. I try to make sure that the piece is lit well enough that my camera doesn't want to use its flash, as that can cause all sorts of exposure problems. I use a 35mm camera with autofocus, then scan the developed photos that have been professionally color balanced at the lab.


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Joined: September 26, 2002
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Posted on Tue May 20, 2003 9:55 am
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A good free program for basic image manipulations (it's very good at converting and resizing) is IrfanView - http://www.irfanview.com

I use it for all basic tasks - it even does batch processing..

Joined: March 12, 2003
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Posted on Tue May 20, 2003 10:23 am
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I've found that scaning in pics is the ezest way to get a large clear pic put the catch is you'll need a pic program that can "save for web". that turns the pic in to just data code get rid of all the accsess information that is made wile the pic was edited (Adobe Photoshop 7.0 is a good example it took my 2.5meg pics doun to 30-40kb)

just giving my 2 cents

later days


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Joined: January 31, 2003
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Posted on Wed May 21, 2003 5:00 am
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Macromedia Fireworks. It does web optimization wonderfully well. I've also had good luck with Paint Shop Pro, which will reduce the color count with a Web-Safe option.


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Joined: April 17, 2003
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Posted on Thu May 22, 2003 10:15 am
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If anyone needs images squished down, I can also alter/crunch them for you, having a copy of Photoshop and PSP to play around with. That reminds me, that I should get on uploading some of my photos... also, when taking photos, don't rely on having your mail well enough lit to have the autoflash not work-- on almost any digital camera, "autoflash" means "Flash doesn't activate if light is blindingly bright, but activates anyways in anything less than sunflare conditions". I'ma gonna go load stuff into the gallery.

Joined: May 12, 2003
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Location: new hampshire, usa

digital camera...
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Posted on Sat May 31, 2003 4:29 am
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i take pics with my digital camera..and i find the detail amazing!
i don't know why digital cameras get such a bad rap!
you just need to read the manual and know how to use it.
not that anyone here doesn't know how to or anything...!!!

just to see the quality and detail possible, you can check these out.

www.ofjoanna.com/detail.htm

these pics aren't too large, but i quickly took them a minute ago
from an inch away...and they are in focus.
if i actually took the time with lighting and all that,
they'd have turned out even better clarity.
and if you want more close up photos,
you can still get closer if you need more detail in a smaller area.

-if you have a quality camera, it should have a setting and instructions for taking pics as close as an inch away from a subject.
solid color background and natural type lighting is also key...
as is a quality camera!

-i use adobe photoshop to reduce size because it
automatically sets the width to the height (or vice-versa)...
no need to stretch and skew and calculate and all that...
and they don't end up pixelated.

my camera is set at 640x420 to fit my purposes...but set higher, you'd still have the same detail and clarity in a larger photo.

Joined: September 21, 2002
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Posted on Sat May 31, 2003 6:20 am
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hmmm... what d-cam do you use?


It is well-known that the body is made up of various elements, among these being iron. The reason we know the body has iron in it is because we can taste the iron in our blood. Therefore, it stands to reason that the iron in our blood will be drawn to the north, just as the iron needle on the compass is drawn to the north.

In order to make the body compass work, you must shut your eyes, so as not to confuse things, extend the right arm with the index finger pointing, then spin around three times to the left. When you stop, open your eyes, and you will discover that you are facing north.

Dragons of a Lost Star
Margaret Weis & Tracy Hickman

Joined: May 12, 2003
Posts: 15
Submissions: 3
Location: new hampshire, usa

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Posted on Sat May 31, 2003 7:14 am
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sony dsc-s75
i'm not really sure what other cameras are capable of...
maybe i shouldn't have opened my mouth.

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