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Jens Pind Linkage 5
(CGI)
Article © MAIL User: lorraine
Jens Pind Linkage 5
This tutorial uses 5 different colors of rings to help keep track of the order of each added ring. You can use already colored rings like enameled copper, or use Kodiak's clever idea of color coding the rings with felt tip markers. Anything that will help you keep the rings separated will work. You will need to be able to hold onto all of the rings, keeping them in a specific order until your starter piece is stable enough to hold normally. For that reason, I like to use very flimsy rings made of something like 24 or 22awg enameled copper. These can be easily closed with your fingers, so you can hold onto the rings without having to deal with pliers at the same time. The quality of your closures is unimportant in the beginning as long as there are no gaps big enough for another ring to slip through. I hold the rings along the bottom edge between my thumb and first finger. You should do whatever works for you. These first few rings are really just place holders until you reach a point where everything is stable enough that it doesn’t just fall apart on you. 20awg/3.0mm rings are a good size to use for your starter piece.
NOTE: I have also added a section at the bottom of this tutorial on how to tell if you are weaving JPL 5 correctly.
_________________________________________________
A good AR for JPL5 is around 4.7 to 4.9. I like to use 18awg/4.75mm.
Step 1. Lay out piles of opened rings in a line in front of you in the order that you will be adding them. This tutorial will use these colors in the following order.
1-RED, 2-YELLOW, 3-GREEN, 4-BLUE, 5-PINK
Step 2. You will start with a 3 ring mobius with the first 3 colors. Notice that along the top edge, each new ring added is in FRONT of the previous rings.
Step 3. Before you add 4-BLUE, flip 1-RED up so that it is in front along the top edge.
STEP 4. Now add 4-BLUE through the middle of all the rings and place it with the top edge in front.
Step 5. Flip 2-YELLOW up from the bottom so the top edge is in front.
Step 6. Add 5-PINK through the middle of all the rings and place it in front along the top edge.
Step 7. Flip 3-GREEN up from the bottom so it is in front along the top edge as usual.
Step 8. Things change a little at this point. You will now be putting each ring through ONLY the last 4 rings. So, flip 1-RED up halfway. You will now add 6-RED through the last 4 rings and place its left edge above 1-RED.
Step 9. Flip both RED rings up, still in their overlapping position, so that they are in front along the top edge.
Step 10. Flip 4-BLUE up as usual.
Step 11. Flip 2-YELLOW up halfway and add 7-YELLOW through the last 4 rings placing the left edge above 2-YELLOW.
Step 12. Flip the YELLOW rings up as usual. Your piece should be getting stable enough that you don’t need the death grip anymore.
Step 13. Flip 5-PINK up as usual.
Step 14. Flip 3-GREEN up halfway and add 8-GREEN through the last 4 rings placing the left edge above 3-GREEN
Step 15. Flip the GREEN rings up as usual.
Step 16. Flip 6-RED up.
Step 17. Add the next BLUE ring.
Step 18. Flip the BLUE and YELLOW rings up and add the next PINK ring.
Step 19. Flip the PINK and GREEN rings up. Can you tell where the next ring should be added?
Step 20. That's right, through the last 4 rings and angled the same as the 5th ring back. I knew you could do it!
Continue adding rings, always through the last 4 rings and oriented the same way as the 5th ring back. Be sure to frequently look back to make sure that each ring is placed exactly right, or you will have to perform an autopsy to fix it.
_______________________________________________
You can make any JPL, from JPL3 (Jens Pind Linkage) on up, with this tutorial by using a simple formula.
# of rings in the starting mobius = (JPLx +1)/2
So for JPL7, you would start with a mobius of 4 because (7+1)/2 = 4. Then flip ring #1 up, add the next ring, etc, just like in this tutorial. Then, when you get to the point of repeating the spiral, add each new ring through the last 6 rings and above the 7th ring back.
JPL9 would start with a mobius of 5. (9+1)/2 = 5. Then flip ring #1 up, add the next ring, etc, just like in this tutorial. Then, when you get to the point of repeating the spiral, add each new ring through the last 8 rings and above the 9th ring back.
_______________________________________________
HOW TO TELL IF YOU ARE WEAVING JPL5 CORRECTLY
First a picture of JPL5 and not JPL5
TOP: correct
BOTTOM: incorrect
________________________________________________
Same picture, but a close-up of the beginnings of the chains. Top chain is started correctly. Bottom chain is started incorrectly.
________________________________________________
The close-up of the correct one next to a rendered picture from the tutorial above.
________________________________________________
A picture of how you can tell if you have woven JPL5 correctly. Adjacent rows ALWAYS lean in opposite directions to each other. In the correctly woven top chain, the yellow row leans with the left side of the rings under its neighbor and the right side of the rings over its neighbor. The adjacent pink row leans with the left side of the rings over its neighbor and right side of the rings under its neighbor. Opposite leans. This back and forth lean with each adjacent row goes all the way around the chain.
In the bottom chain the yellow row and its adjacent blue row have the same lean. This does not happen in correctly woven JPL5.
If you have any questions about this tutorial, I will be happy to try to answer them.
Lorraine
This tutorial uses 5 different colors of rings to help keep track of the order of each added ring. You can use already colored rings like enameled copper, or use Kodiak's clever idea of color coding the rings with felt tip markers. Anything that will help you keep the rings separated will work. You will need to be able to hold onto all of the rings, keeping them in a specific order until your starter piece is stable enough to hold normally. For that reason, I like to use very flimsy rings made of something like 24 or 22awg enameled copper. These can be easily closed with your fingers, so you can hold onto the rings without having to deal with pliers at the same time. The quality of your closures is unimportant in the beginning as long as there are no gaps big enough for another ring to slip through. I hold the rings along the bottom edge between my thumb and first finger. You should do whatever works for you. These first few rings are really just place holders until you reach a point where everything is stable enough that it doesn’t just fall apart on you. 20awg/3.0mm rings are a good size to use for your starter piece.
NOTE: I have also added a section at the bottom of this tutorial on how to tell if you are weaving JPL 5 correctly.
_________________________________________________
A good AR for JPL5 is around 4.7 to 4.9. I like to use 18awg/4.75mm.
Step 1. Lay out piles of opened rings in a line in front of you in the order that you will be adding them. This tutorial will use these colors in the following order.
1-RED, 2-YELLOW, 3-GREEN, 4-BLUE, 5-PINK
Step 2. You will start with a 3 ring mobius with the first 3 colors. Notice that along the top edge, each new ring added is in FRONT of the previous rings.
Step 3. Before you add 4-BLUE, flip 1-RED up so that it is in front along the top edge.
STEP 4. Now add 4-BLUE through the middle of all the rings and place it with the top edge in front.
Step 5. Flip 2-YELLOW up from the bottom so the top edge is in front.
Step 6. Add 5-PINK through the middle of all the rings and place it in front along the top edge.
Step 7. Flip 3-GREEN up from the bottom so it is in front along the top edge as usual.
Step 8. Things change a little at this point. You will now be putting each ring through ONLY the last 4 rings. So, flip 1-RED up halfway. You will now add 6-RED through the last 4 rings and place its left edge above 1-RED.
Step 9. Flip both RED rings up, still in their overlapping position, so that they are in front along the top edge.
Step 10. Flip 4-BLUE up as usual.
Step 11. Flip 2-YELLOW up halfway and add 7-YELLOW through the last 4 rings placing the left edge above 2-YELLOW.
Step 12. Flip the YELLOW rings up as usual. Your piece should be getting stable enough that you don’t need the death grip anymore.
Step 13. Flip 5-PINK up as usual.
Step 14. Flip 3-GREEN up halfway and add 8-GREEN through the last 4 rings placing the left edge above 3-GREEN
Step 15. Flip the GREEN rings up as usual.
Step 16. Flip 6-RED up.
Step 17. Add the next BLUE ring.
Step 18. Flip the BLUE and YELLOW rings up and add the next PINK ring.
Step 19. Flip the PINK and GREEN rings up. Can you tell where the next ring should be added?
Step 20. That's right, through the last 4 rings and angled the same as the 5th ring back. I knew you could do it!
Continue adding rings, always through the last 4 rings and oriented the same way as the 5th ring back. Be sure to frequently look back to make sure that each ring is placed exactly right, or you will have to perform an autopsy to fix it.
_______________________________________________
You can make any JPL, from JPL3 (Jens Pind Linkage) on up, with this tutorial by using a simple formula.
# of rings in the starting mobius = (JPLx +1)/2
So for JPL7, you would start with a mobius of 4 because (7+1)/2 = 4. Then flip ring #1 up, add the next ring, etc, just like in this tutorial. Then, when you get to the point of repeating the spiral, add each new ring through the last 6 rings and above the 7th ring back.
JPL9 would start with a mobius of 5. (9+1)/2 = 5. Then flip ring #1 up, add the next ring, etc, just like in this tutorial. Then, when you get to the point of repeating the spiral, add each new ring through the last 8 rings and above the 9th ring back.
_______________________________________________
HOW TO TELL IF YOU ARE WEAVING JPL5 CORRECTLY
First a picture of JPL5 and not JPL5
TOP: correct
BOTTOM: incorrect
________________________________________________
Same picture, but a close-up of the beginnings of the chains. Top chain is started correctly. Bottom chain is started incorrectly.
________________________________________________
The close-up of the correct one next to a rendered picture from the tutorial above.
________________________________________________
A picture of how you can tell if you have woven JPL5 correctly. Adjacent rows ALWAYS lean in opposite directions to each other. In the correctly woven top chain, the yellow row leans with the left side of the rings under its neighbor and the right side of the rings over its neighbor. The adjacent pink row leans with the left side of the rings over its neighbor and right side of the rings under its neighbor. Opposite leans. This back and forth lean with each adjacent row goes all the way around the chain.
In the bottom chain the yellow row and its adjacent blue row have the same lean. This does not happen in correctly woven JPL5.
If you have any questions about this tutorial, I will be happy to try to answer them.
Lorraine
Original URL: http://www.mailleartisans.org/articles/articledisplay.php?key=552
