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Joining Half Persian 4 in 1
Article © MAIL User: Vacacita
Joining Half Persian 4-1, version 2
by Theresa Olin (Vacacita)
by Theresa Olin (Vacacita)
I revised my tutorial on joining Half Persian 4 in 1 to focus more on the actual procedure I use, with detailed photos to clarify each step. The original version, with CGI renders, can be found elsewhere on MAIL Joining Half Persian 4 in 1 (CGI).
Visit Derakon's Library or see my tutorial (Half Persian 4 in 1 (from CGMaille)) for instructions on weaving HP 4-1. It's a very good idea to be comfortable with working the weave before you try joining it, and it takes some practice to get this weave down.
The key to joining a length of Half Persian 4-1 chain into a continuous loop is recognizing how the two rows of rings interact. To make this clearer, I've used different colored rings for each row. One row (red) consists of the open rings worked while weaving the chain, and the other (silver) row comprises the pre-closed rings that are added along the way.
There are two important principles: First, each ring in a row lies in an over-under sequence with the adjacent rings in that row. (Imagine a row of books on a shelf that have slumped over partway.) Second, each ring goes through only rings of the opposite row.
Some notes: I'm right-handed, so the instructions and pictures reflect that orientation. Left-handed maillers may have an easier time by going at some steps from a different angle. Also, if you have rings of different colors, try using a different color for each row as in the pictures. That simply means that all open rings will be one color, and all pre-closed rings will be another. It's not necessary to use the same colors I use for the example, but I'll refer to the rings by their colors to make things simple.
Procedure
1. Make a length of HP 4-1 chain that is one 2-ring unit shorter than the finished connected length. (An easy way to count units is to count the number of open rings you've added. For example, the chain in the picture will be 30 units long when it's joined, so it now has 29 red rings in the top row.) When you weave the last ring of this chain, don't add the extra pre-closed ring. (So, if the finished closed chain will be 30 units long total, the 29th open ring should be added without a closed ring.) Or you can just remove that extra ring after it's been woven on.
2. Lay out the chain as shown. The row of open-worked rings is on top, and the end you started with is on the left. The bottom row should stick out past the top row on both ends. (The purple ring on the left end is part of the silver row.) You can also check the direction each row is "going" in: if you follow the overlap of the rings, the top row should progress toward the left, and the bottom row should progress toward the right.
3. Pick up the left side of the chain so that the end is pointing up. Notice that the silver-row ring farthest on the end (purple in the pictures) goes through two red rings.
Take off this end ring, move it underneath the red rings, and pass it through one silver ring. Don't close the ring yet. It is now part of the red row.
* Note: If you want to make a loop in which each row of rings is a different color, you'll need to replace the ring you removed with one of the correct color. Simply remove the end ring as shown, and then get an open ring of the proper color and pass that through the single ring underneath the chain.
4. Still holding that ring with your pliers, bring the other end of the chain back and up to meet the open ring.
5. In the picture above, see the two silver rings under my finger on the top end of the chain? Pass the open ring through those two rings, going over (but not through) the red ring. Then close the ring. The purple ring should now have three silver rings going through it.
6. Still holding that ring with your pliers, slip a finger or two through the loop from the other side. Then you can let go with the pliers.
7. Next you'll add another open ring (blue in the following pictures) to the silver row to completely close the gap. It will go through only rings from the red row, including the purple ring you just closed. In the first picture below, the black arrow points to a silver ring on the left side of the gap; the new ring will go underneath that ring, so you'll need to nudge it out of the way.
As the second picture shows, you'll actually pass the new open ring down through two rings from the red row - the purple ring and the next red ring. The new ring goes underneath the silver ring that you moved out of the way. Make sure you don't pass through any silver rings.
8. With the chain oriented as in the first picture below, continue passing the new ring through the closest two red rings above it (marked with black lines). Keep the new ring on top of the next silver ring. Then close the ring.
9. In the third picture above, see the red ring and silver ring that don't cross through each other? (They're sort of framed by the blue and purple rings.) Open one of those rings and pass it through the other so that they match the rest of the pattern.
That's it! For good measure, you can check the join area for anything out of place. It should look exactly like the rest of the weave pattern. If anything is amiss, just try retracing your steps and remember the two principles I mentioned at the beginning.
Original URL: http://www.mailleartisans.org/articles/articledisplay.php?key=354
