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Date Uploaded: February 27, 2005, 6:13 pm Last Edited: December 14, 2012, 9:08 pm |
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Cobra / Hinge
Article © MAIL User: Tesserex
The Cobra / Hinge weave was originally submitted, I believe, by Arquen. I then mistakingly reinvented it. So, now I have a tutorial too. I think this weave could be very useful practically for its unique flexibility properties.
Basically, it consists of European 4 in 1, squished perpendicular to the grain and then having coplanar rings intersect.
1. Make a bunch of two ring units and lie them so they all look the same.
2. Connect the two ring units into a ribbon that resembles euro 4-1. This is probably the most difficult step. You run the new rings around the eye made in the units. However, you also have to make sure that when you attach a new unit, that the rings agree in lean with the ones before. As you probably know, the third ring in a spiral or mobius decides the lean. Same is true here.
Now, be careful. This is one of those weaves that becomes a horrible tangled mess if you touch it the wrong way. In my ribbon, I have a down left, up right, and up left rows. Now I am going to show you how to add all four kinds of rows, starting with the next one, down right. These terms refer to the row's lean and the relative angle with which it intersects the ones that match it in lean.
Begin this row by running an open ring through two rings of the last row, as you would for euro 4-1, but also running it downward through the ring above those. Remember that it only intersects one ring from two rows above it.
Repeat this connection, making sure that the next ring lies under the previous one, as it would in euro 4-1.
Complete the down right row.
Now for the down left row again. To keep the weave from tapering toward the bottom, we add a ring that only intersects one from the previous row. It leans left, but also runs downward through the previous left leaning row.
The next ring goes through two from the down right row, and runs downward through the previous left row.
Complete the row, concluding with a ring that passes through only one from the previous row, to prevent taper.
Sorry for the fuzzy picture. I didn't notice until later. This row is constructed by running the open rings through the two in the previous row, like usual, but upwards through the rings of the down left row. As you may have guessed, this is the up right row.
The last row, the up left, passes upward through the rings of the down left row. This is also the only image I didn't alter with Brightness/Contrast in Photoshop. Probably also the clearest.
I really like this weave, because of its flexibility. The intersection of down rows compresses the sheet, forcing it into a stiff board. The intersection of up rows is much looser, allowing the stiff sections on either side to fold like a door hinge. That's why I originally called it Hinge. Very fun to play with.
Basically, it consists of European 4 in 1, squished perpendicular to the grain and then having coplanar rings intersect.
1. Make a bunch of two ring units and lie them so they all look the same.
2. Connect the two ring units into a ribbon that resembles euro 4-1. This is probably the most difficult step. You run the new rings around the eye made in the units. However, you also have to make sure that when you attach a new unit, that the rings agree in lean with the ones before. As you probably know, the third ring in a spiral or mobius decides the lean. Same is true here.
Now, be careful. This is one of those weaves that becomes a horrible tangled mess if you touch it the wrong way. In my ribbon, I have a down left, up right, and up left rows. Now I am going to show you how to add all four kinds of rows, starting with the next one, down right. These terms refer to the row's lean and the relative angle with which it intersects the ones that match it in lean.
Begin this row by running an open ring through two rings of the last row, as you would for euro 4-1, but also running it downward through the ring above those. Remember that it only intersects one ring from two rows above it.
Repeat this connection, making sure that the next ring lies under the previous one, as it would in euro 4-1.
Complete the down right row.
Now for the down left row again. To keep the weave from tapering toward the bottom, we add a ring that only intersects one from the previous row. It leans left, but also runs downward through the previous left leaning row.
The next ring goes through two from the down right row, and runs downward through the previous left row.
Complete the row, concluding with a ring that passes through only one from the previous row, to prevent taper.
Sorry for the fuzzy picture. I didn't notice until later. This row is constructed by running the open rings through the two in the previous row, like usual, but upwards through the rings of the down left row. As you may have guessed, this is the up right row.
The last row, the up left, passes upward through the rings of the down left row. This is also the only image I didn't alter with Brightness/Contrast in Photoshop. Probably also the clearest.
I really like this weave, because of its flexibility. The intersection of down rows compresses the sheet, forcing it into a stiff board. The intersection of up rows is much looser, allowing the stiff sections on either side to fold like a door hinge. That's why I originally called it Hinge. Very fun to play with.
Original URL: http://www.mailleartisans.org/articles/articledisplay.php?key=334
