Submitted ByEdit Dates
Date Uploaded: December 20, 2004, 1:33 am Last Edited: January 31, 2016, 2:52 am |
 Add toSite Favourites Print this Article |
Joining Half Persian 4 in 1
(CGI)
Article © MAIL User: Vacacita
Joining Half Persian 4-1
By Theresa Olin (tutorial) and Jeff Olin (renders)
Vacacita and Phong on The Ring Lord Forum
By Theresa Olin (tutorial) and Jeff Olin (renders)
Vacacita and Phong on The Ring Lord Forum
It's a very good idea to be comfortable with working Half Persian 4 in 1 before you try joining it. If you're new to the weave, head over to one of the basic HP 4-1 tutorials (Derakon's is my favorite) and give it plenty of practice time before you try making sense of these instructions.
The key to joining a length of Half Persian 4-1 chain into a continuous loop is recognizing how the two rows of rings interact. One row (red in the diagrams below) consists of the open rings worked while weaving the chain, and the other (blue) row comprises the pre-closed rings that are added along the way.
There are two important principles: First, each ring in a row lies in an over-under sequence with the adjacent rings in that row. (Imagine a row of books on a shelf that have slumped over partway.) Second, each ring goes through only rings of the opposite row.
A couple of notes: These instructions are designed for a right-handed person, so lefties may have an easier time by going at some steps from a different angle. Also, if you have rings of different colors, try using a different color for each row as in the pictures. That simply means that all open rings will be one color, and all pre-closed rings will be another.
Procedure
1. Make a length of HP 4-1 chain that is one 2-ring unit shorter than the finished connected length. (An easy way to count units is to count the number of open rings you've added, since there will generally be extra pre-closed rings on each end.) At the next to last unit, don't add the extra pre-closed ring. (For example, if the finished closed chain will be 30 units long total, the 29th open ring should be added without a closed ring.)
2. Lay out the chain as shown, with the row of open-worked rings on top.
3. See how the bottom row has rings sticking out on both ends? Take off the extra ring on the left side.
4. Move the ends of the chain up toward each other to form the shape of a circle. The "red" (top) rings should be on the inside of the circle. This is the layout of the chain ends as they will be joined:
5. Add a new ring (green in the diagrams below) to the "red" row, starting on the left side. I always find it easier to start on the end where the new ring will lay underneath the adjacent ring, which you will notice is the case on the left side. Pass the new open ring through one blue ring, under the red ring on the very end.
6. Bring the other end up to meet the working end, making sure the chain isn't twisted. Continue passing the open ring through 2 blue rings on the other end, keeping it on top of the red ring. Close the ring.
7. Turn the chain around 180 degrees. This will make it easier to add the new "blue" ring on the left side so that it lays underneath the adjacent blue ring.
8. Add a new ring (orange in the diagrams below) to the "blue" row, once again starting on the left side of the gap. Start by nudging that blue ring out of the way, since the new ring will settle in underneath it. Pass down through the green ring and then through the next red ring. Make sure you don't actually go through any rings from the blue row.
Here's the view from below, so you can see where the orange ring goes through the red ring:
9. Continue passing up through 2 red rings on the right side, with the orange ring laying over the adjacent blue ring. Close the ring.
10. In the picture above, see the blue ring and red ring that don't cross through each other? (They're sort of framed by the green ring.) Open one of those rings and pass it through the other so that they match the rest of the pattern.
That's it! For good measure, you can check the join area for anything out of place. It should look exactly like the rest of the weave pattern. If anything is amiss, just try retracing your steps and remember the two principles I mentioned at the beginning.
Original URL: http://www.mailleartisans.org/articles/articledisplay.php?key=309
