How much slack in armpit?
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Joined: August 11, 2014
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How much slack in armpit?
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Posted on Tue Aug 15, 2017 5:56 pm
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Hello, I'm back with another question concerning my haubergeon. It is a question about sleeves and yes I checked the other articles but they all seem to be about the seam, I just extended the sleeves out so it's just a 90* seam. I couldnt find anything about the slack. I added the expansions and contractions using the Travis barker article as a guide. Now it seems like the armpit hangs too much, however I'm not sure if the slack is necessary for mobility. I don't know if I could slide the shoulder straps farther apart to decrease the armpit size but I'm not sure how that would affect the way it fits and weight distribution etc. it's 14swg 5/16 and there are ~20 rings making up the flat part of the armhole ->D and I'm a pretty small guy. I can try to post pics If I can find a decent image hosting site.

Tldr
How much slack should be in the armpit?
Mine is about 20 rings across and seems really saggy.

Joined: March 27, 2002
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Posted on Thu Aug 17, 2017 12:00 am
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20 links across makes it about 6 1/4 inches, and yes, that has lots of chances to sag. What I'd do is fill in the SIDES of the armhole to reduce that free-flopping length as much as I can, anchoring it as it were, until I'm down to a couple-three inches of free edge, and do a 90 degree join of that much.

You're probably going to also build up that long bottom of the armscye higher into the armpit, to give you freedom to raise your arm and sleeve overhead without dragging half the shirt up too. Heavy!

You're on the right track; you just need to close things up step by step. Do a step on one armpit, then cross over and do the same step on the other armpit, so both are making the same sort of progress without you forgetting anything.

You say you're a small guy. I hope this shirt doesn't come out too damn heavy for a pretty small guy to actually do anything in. Also keep in mind you'll be putting something by way of padding between self and shirt, which takes up some of the slack.


'The Minstrel Boy to the War is gone...'

Joined: August 11, 2014
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Posted on Thu Aug 17, 2017 4:44 pm
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Thanks Konstantin, I ended up moving the front shoulder straps farther apart because they were almost creating a V and with the shoulder and back expansions they could be moved out some then I took up some of the slack by attaching a few rings of the back of the armpit to the shoulder straps to widen the straps themselves. Then I did the 90 degree seam and it works out pretty nice. I also made it fairly high to give me the arm mobility you suggested. The only part that was a bit weird was where the seam for the sleeve was transitioning from normal o 90 degree in the corners but I found a way that doesn't look too terrible and is functional. And yes this is very heavy. When I started I didn't have a lot of options because I bought the wire and knipex cutters and then found a really long spade drill bit laying around and used the shaft as a mandrel. Now it's measured as 5/16. I started the shirt with that size ring and never changed it. To this day I still use that bit for my rings for this shirt but it's nearing completion at this time. Only other question I'll probably have is the frequency of hole row contractions for the taper and maybe options for trim. Thanks for the help!

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