Help with something embarassingly basic
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Joined: August 15, 2017
Posts: 1
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Location: BC Canada

Help with something embarassingly basic
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Posted on Tue Aug 15, 2017 7:45 pm
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Hey guys, I'm new to this forum but not to maille, having previously made chausses and a bishops mantle. I am currently working on a lorica hamata, and have run into a slight hiccup. I started by making a square with a square hole in the middle to fit over the head and shoulders. I've got it to where I'dlike to join it under the arms when I noticed that the orientation on the rings doesn't allow for that. The rings are angled in the same direction in the front and back like this:

))))))))) ((((((((((((
((((((((( ))))))))))))

Instead of:

)))))))) )))))))))))))
(((((((( ((((((((((((((

This means they can't join properly. My instinct is to cut my square at the top of the shoulders and have the ugly seam there, where it will be covered by a second layer of maille, but I'm hoping for a more elegant solution. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks in advance

Joined: October 22, 2010
Posts: 668
Submissions: 388
Location: Yucaipa, CA

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Posted on Tue Aug 15, 2017 10:00 pm
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i ran into that problem with my bikini tops and found a gridlock seam to work well. disregard the angle of the seam, you can do it without the angle.

Joined: March 27, 2002
Posts: 3400
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Posted on Wed Aug 16, 2017 11:48 pm
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This is one reason one should avoid "fold over the top of you" layouts, but instead build a body barrel, based upon your waist measurement plus some slack, that goes AROUND you and the ends meet, forming a modified tube, into which you insert contraction zones at and descending from your shoulder blades, to make your chest measurement plus slack for gambeson and free movement -- roughly chest measurement plus 9 or 10 inches, fully stretched out.

The elegant solution is to move your back half of your folded square up by one linkrow. This will of course leave you a linkrow short back there, so fill that in. Then proceed however you prefer, with things now evened out.

To do the classic, ancient mailshirt method, your square wants expansion zones inserted into the back edge of the square, to line up with the contraction zones I mentioned.

There's no law against prefabricating the entire expansion/plain bit/contraction array and inserting it in a bloc, then building the body barrel around these as you go. You'll end up with the taper to the waist and the enlargement for your chest and shoulders.

The expansion & contraction array will look like so:

   | |

Expansion array on top, a smallish rectangle of plain E4-1 in the middle, then a contraction array down to regular weaving again. Total breadth of each array is 2-3 fingersbreadths, for a total of about a handspan added, upon the shoulder blades, behind the sleeves.

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