saw cutting setup questions
View previous topic | View next topic >
Post new topic Reply to topic
M.A.I.L. Forum Index -> Knitting Circle
   
Author Message

Joined: March 30, 2015
Posts: 6
Submissions: 0
Location: Port Clinton

saw cutting setup questions
Reply with quote
Posted on Mon Mar 30, 2015 9:25 am
Link to Post: Link to Post

Hi there, ive been cutting rings for my maille by hand for about 8 years, and i've been slowly putting a saw cutting rig together. I was curious as to what kind of setups people have made other than the ones in the articles section? Mine as of right now consists of an angle grinder with a custom arbor made to it, and a mounted piece of angle iron sitting on top of the blade. Having some issues getting the rings to cut, if i put a coil through and dont try to put pressure down on it by the blade itself it'll just push the coil back up and just make marks on the coil. I know its a really quite vague description (i'll be posting pictures with it tuesday,) but what kind of ideas would you all have to put a consistent pressure down on the coil while feeding it down at the same time? Fairly certain that and figuring out how to properly lubricate the blade are the only two issues i've got as of right now. Any help would be greatly appreciated, and i'm sorry my grammar is awful (lol.) Only cutting aluminum with this

Joined: July 25, 2008
Posts: 844
Submissions: 0

Reply with quote
Posted on Mon Mar 30, 2015 10:07 pm
Link to Post: Link to Post

Do you have some pictures of your setup?
There are some serious saftey concerns cutting aluminum with an abrasive blade.
How are you slowing down the grinder?

Joined: March 30, 2015
Posts: 6
Submissions: 0
Location: Port Clinton

Reply with quote
Posted on Tue Mar 31, 2015 8:48 am
Link to Post: Link to Post

I'm going to set it up today when I wake up, it's using a jumpringer blade, not just your typical abrasive blade. I forgot to specify on that I'm sorry lol. It's got an rpm wheel on it to speed up and slow down, generally going to run it slowly. Not worried about cutting mass rings, just want saw cuts for the jewelry I make.

Joined: December 22, 2007
Posts: 4610
Submissions: 106
Location: Hampton, Virginia USA

Reply with quote
Posted on Wed Apr 01, 2015 2:21 am
Link to Post: Link to Post

I would suggest a set-up that employs slitting/slotting saw blades with an arbor. The blades should be as thin as possible while still giving you a nice sharp cut depending on the material. A speed controller and lubricant is very useful as well.


"I am a leaf on the wind." ~ Wash
Lorraine's Chains
Gallery Submission Guidelines

Joined: March 30, 2015
Posts: 6
Submissions: 0
Location: Port Clinton

Reply with quote
Posted on Thu Apr 02, 2015 12:48 am
Link to Post: Link to Post

Not gonna lie, I'm havin a very difficult time getting a picture of the setup to work lol. trying to figure out how to upload it

Joined: March 30, 2015
Posts: 6
Submissions: 0
Location: Port Clinton

Reply with quote
Posted on Thu Apr 02, 2015 12:54 am
Link to Post: Link to Post


hopefully that works, it wouldn't let me use the bbcode for that link.

Joined: July 25, 2008
Posts: 844
Submissions: 0

Reply with quote
Posted on Thu Apr 02, 2015 3:42 am
Link to Post: Link to Post

It looks like you may want to tilt the guide table and find some way to improve the stability.
The v groove looks a bit larger then nessacarly but it depends on your rings.
What are you using to tension the top guide block to the table?
Compression springs are common, though foam spacers could also work.

Are you using anything to coolant on the blade?

Joined: March 30, 2015
Posts: 6
Submissions: 0
Location: Port Clinton

Reply with quote
Posted on Thu Apr 02, 2015 4:57 am
Link to Post: Link to Post

What top guide block do you mean? The guide table is tilted downward as far as it can for clearance purposes. Trying to figure out how I'm going to cool it when I can make it cutting capable

Joined: June 17, 2007
Posts: 532
Submissions: 21

Reply with quote
Posted on Thu Apr 02, 2015 12:59 pm
Link to Post: Link to Post

Here is a rig I made a while ago...

http://www.mailleartisans.org/board/viewtopic.php?t=9740&highlight=

Eeep about 7-8 years ago...


Maille Code V2.0 T5.4 R4.5 Eo.p Fj12.2 MFe.s Wg$i C$p G0.5-1.5 I1.2-10.8 N16.16 Pt Dcejt Xa6g14 S07 Hc
Articles - Byzantine Speed Weaving - Poor Man's Tumbler - Ring Jig - Turk's Head Knot Ring - Wire Winding
Maille - Belt - Choker w. Padlock - Collar - Collar with Twist - Cuffs - Cuff 2 - Decorative Chains - DS Belt - Maille Cuffs - Micro Ring - T Shirt - Vambrace - Watch Band - Watch Chain
Non-maille - Ring - Ring Mk II

Joined: January 17, 2013
Posts: 373
Submissions: 5
Location: Probably in the garage...

Reply with quote
Posted on Thu Apr 02, 2015 1:15 pm
Link to Post: Link to Post

Your going to need something to keep the coil from moving upwards away from the blade, as losthelm mentions a top guide block. The top blocks are normally adjustable to accommodate different coil sizes which you should be able to add to your current setup fairly easily. You don't want to have to press down on the coil with your hand. In effect you want a channel so the coil is surrounded on all sides by something that isn't your hand. You feed the coil into the channel, the channel keeps it in place as it gets cut, keeping digits away from the blade.

Unless you have a variac that bench grinder is going to run at one speed (probably listed on the spec plate). For cutting aluminum it'll probably be OK but anything hard is going to want a lower RPM.

Your guide table, in particular those bolts should be secured to a plate of some form which itself should be bolted to your table, the grinder should also be bolted to the table. Primarily for safety reasons but your cut quality will suffer or coils will bind if things are not aligned properly or have too much play.

Adding a small container to the bottom of the guide would catch cutting fluid falling off the guide table. Pump it back up via a small pump and some plastic tubing.

Given the location of the on/off switch on the grinder you may want another way to kill the power quickly without having to go near it, an extension cord or the like would provided some extra safety. Removing the other grinding stone and putting a cover over that end of the shaft would also be good from a safety perspective.

The grinder will have lots of torque, that's a big motor turning a very small cutting blade. If the blade binds or breaks, I don't know what will happen but chances are the grinder isn't going to stop spinning, something else will start spinning or flying away.

As you may have noticed, I'm a bit concerned about the safety aspects of using such a large motor. Be safe as that motor will show no remorse to anything that gets stuck in it.


Mostly Harmless

Joined: March 30, 2015
Posts: 6
Submissions: 0
Location: Port Clinton

Reply with quote
Posted on Thu Apr 02, 2015 6:52 pm
Link to Post: Link to Post

I'd figured the top block was my biggest stopping point, just wanted to confirm that. The grinder does have speed variation, it's right by the on off switch. I know it's too wobbly right now to be any real type of safe (magically My brackets and half my bolts went missing) before everything was secured down and didn't move. Just haphazardly tossed it back together to see what opinions I could get and form the tool to them because I don't know too much about this subject

Joined: June 17, 2007
Posts: 532
Submissions: 21

Reply with quote
Posted on Thu Apr 02, 2015 8:50 pm
Link to Post: Link to Post

I've been pretty happy with the cutting rig I use, though I would like to make some improvements, (Mains powered instead of battery powered, better speed control...)

A couple of things I have found, Alignment is crucial to having your blades last, if the coil is feeding in at a angle even with lube the blade can quickly overheat, those long bolts look like a source of movement in the system, perhaps using a large block of wood with the bolts passing through it could reduce the movement (and also add mass which might dampen the vibration...)

Regards.
Anon.


Maille Code V2.0 T5.4 R4.5 Eo.p Fj12.2 MFe.s Wg$i C$p G0.5-1.5 I1.2-10.8 N16.16 Pt Dcejt Xa6g14 S07 Hc
Articles - Byzantine Speed Weaving - Poor Man's Tumbler - Ring Jig - Turk's Head Knot Ring - Wire Winding
Maille - Belt - Choker w. Padlock - Collar - Collar with Twist - Cuffs - Cuff 2 - Decorative Chains - DS Belt - Maille Cuffs - Micro Ring - T Shirt - Vambrace - Watch Band - Watch Chain
Non-maille - Ring - Ring Mk II

Joined: July 25, 2008
Posts: 844
Submissions: 0

Reply with quote
Posted on Fri Apr 03, 2015 6:52 am
Link to Post: Link to Post

Hear is a fairly simple coil guide from a few years back.

www.lotos.ca/maille/inst.pdf
You may need to adapt it a little but it should help.

Post new topic Reply to topic
Jump to:  
Page 1 of 1
All times are GMT. The time now is Sun Aug 25, 2019 4:31 pm
M.A.I.L. Forum Index -> Knitting Circle
Display posts from previous: