Pliers, help please...
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Pliers, help please...
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Posted on Mon Oct 27, 2014 8:20 pm
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I have spent hours here searching about for some answers about pliers. I'm working with BA, 16g, 1/4" rings and they fight back a little. My little jewelry flat nose and bent chain nose are just not working for me. My wife bought me full size stanley needle nose which I plasti-dipped the jaws and still left marks. Now I understand that the dip is just a crutch and perhaps 4 dips wasn't enough. They also don't work because they don't have springs.
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Do anyone have these........ http://www.ebay.com/itm/PARALLEL-PLIERS-FLAT-NOSE-SMOOTH-JAWS-6-1-2-JEWELRY-PARALLEL-ACTION-PLIER-160mm-/191254587134?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2c87a966fe .... and can you tell me if they would be good for the rings I'm using...?
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Will someone please help me on what pliers to buy...? I'm a guy with hands that span 8.5" thumb-pinky. I just don't want to waste anymore money on pliers that won't work. I feel I've spent enough time wading through threads and posts to ask this question. Thanks for your help, I really want to get back to my wife's halter top.
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See I thought I was posting in the correct forum......and I wasn't


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Posted on Mon Oct 27, 2014 9:32 pm
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What model of stanly pliers are you using?
How are you griping the ring?
Pictures may help.

It sounds like your gripping the rings to hard.
Currently I'm using mini craftsman pliers and TRL brand.
Though I have used linesman pliers with the teath ground down as well.

If you hold one handle of the pliers is gravity enough to open the jaws?

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Posted on Mon Oct 27, 2014 10:05 pm
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84-102's
I'm not using those pliers anymore, I've stopped chaining until I get a suitable pair of pliers.

If I grip the rings softly then they tend to spin inside the jaws.....I'll push (spin) one side of the ring into the other pliers..
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Posted on Mon Oct 27, 2014 11:00 pm || Last edited by Konstantin the Red on Tue Oct 28, 2014 1:26 am; edited 1 time in total
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Uh... spin? Confused New one on me. Do you mean the link slips? -- and in what direction when you try and do something?

Your jaw breadth looks good for that diameter link.

What motions do you use to close or open links?

I like to grip the links with broad-jawed pliers, 180 degrees apart, to the 9 o'clock and 3 o'clock of a link; imagine the link ends up at 12 o'clock: =O=. The only motions I use to open or close a link are to twist some, perhaps 1/8 of a turn, like revving a motorcycle. I also horse the link ends in a little bit so they end up pressing together when the closure is complete.

For aluminum you may try nylon-jawed pliers such as beaders use working in silver and gold wire.


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Posted on Mon Oct 27, 2014 11:34 pm
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Spin was a bad choice....but the ring opening rotates because I push in as I twist (like a motorcycle..) So one hand is usually doing the pushing to close as both hands are twisting (slowly in opposite directions) then I feel the closure to see how bad it might catch...(tiny burs that don't go away)


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Posted on Mon Oct 27, 2014 11:55 pm
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Try grasping the ring about an inch from the point of your pliers.
Your loosing a lot of leverage working that far away from the fulcrum.

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Posted on Tue Oct 28, 2014 12:02 am
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the big problem with them (I didn't think it would be) is that constantly having to open them, I took my jewelry pliers for granted...


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Posted on Tue Oct 28, 2014 1:30 am
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Pinky finger is good for opening them back up unless pliers are quite stiff. Springs are nice; some people install spring strips of their own, simply using anything with some spring to it -- hard stainless steel, a strip of that blue-black pallet strapping, often attached with something as simple as nylon tape or such.

But you can get used to lacking a spring pretty quick too.

Really sounds like nylon jaw beaders' pliers would be just the thing, working in soft metal like aluminum in that gauge. Teethed pliers better suit steel.

If you're up for pliers surgery, a fine, flat mill file will knock the tops off the teeth and you can leave any amount of texture you actually want to keep.


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Posted on Tue Oct 28, 2014 1:40 am
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Ok so I was thinking instead of throwing $40 at new pliers, I would find a shop that would grind the nose of my stanley's and then try to have a piece of spring steel welded to the back of the joint.... I'm sure they would do it for $20 or less and I would have a nice set of 2 pliers...


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Posted on Wed Oct 29, 2014 3:57 am
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I've used the parallel jaw pliers before, they work alright for what you're doing but they aren't my favorite.

Grinding your pliers down is a good plan, grind them back to just past the teeth and they'll work pretty well.

Welding a spring onto them isn't necessary, just slip a piece of spring steel inside the rubber on the handles and you're good. That's how professional pliers are made because welding spring steel seldom turns out well.


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Y'know, that might just be crazy enough to work!

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Posted on Wed Oct 29, 2014 11:10 pm
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Ok, so after a long thought process about possibly ruining pliers this is what I did... and many thanks to lorenzo for the spring suggestion. The tips have 4 coats of plasti-dip that I was going to use until I get the feel. I tried them and they still mar the rings somewhat. Not sure if there's no plasti-dip if it would be any worse...... Any suggestions...?....



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Posted on Thu Oct 30, 2014 10:36 pm
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You're welcome, you can also use magnets as springs but that's a little more advanced. Those look pretty good for a first try but I'd get rid of the plasti-dip too. I generally polish the gripping surfaces of my pliers with sandpaper. About 220 grit works okay but you can go as fine as you like.

The thing is that a guy with hands your size likely has the grip strength to totally flatten aluminum rings regardless of the thin coat of rubber. You need to work on your control and using just enough force to get the job done. It seems counter intuitive but the stronger and more consistently your pliers grip the easier that will be.


http://www.mailletec.com

Y'know, that might just be crazy enough to work!

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Posted on Thu Oct 30, 2014 11:17 pm
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That's funny, I just stripped off the plasti-dip....and right now they don't mar up the rings like they did with the plasti-dip on...go figure. Anyways I'm going to do a better job at filing the jaws some more and then polish them... I think they're going to turn out great and I saved myself $40.... I used my dremel to get them where they are now...


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Posted on Fri Oct 31, 2014 12:35 am
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Changing the jaw geometry a few degrees puts the force on a much larger area.

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Posted on Fri Oct 31, 2014 1:58 am
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losthelm wrote:
Changing the jaw geometry a few degrees puts the force on a much larger area.

Of course, if you do it wrong, you may very well get the exact opposite effect.

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