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Making a Turk's Head Knot Ring
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Making a Turk's Head Knot Ring
(W.I.R.E.)
Article © MAIL User: anon
Making a Turk's Head Knot Ring
This is a simple tutorial for making a Turk's Head Knot Ring,
using the Ring Jig from my other tutorial. There may be better ways,
this is just how I did it. If you are interested in seeing some better
examples of Turk's Head Knot Rings I strongly suggest you go to
www.golden-knots.com Loren's work is amazing.
Please note, so far I've only made 6 rings, so my experience
is limited, I may be wrong with some of my statements, if so
please let me know so I can correct them. Thanks! That being
said each ring has taught me a lot and so my technique has
been constantly evolving.
To make a turks head knot ring using these instructions you will
need the following ...
A ring jig
3 pieces of 24 gauge wire
(or 3 pieces of 3 strand wire rope made using 28 gauge wire)
wrap some string around the jig following the path the wire will
take, double the length ... that's roughly how long I make my
pieces of wire
wire cutters
a 'spike'
a clamp of some sort to pull the wire tight
(pic of spike and clamp below)

optional:
pool cue or other tapering rod
leather glove
hammer
soldering iron
silver solder
For this tutorial we will make a 3-lead, 7-bight ring. 5-lead rings
seem to hold themselves better and so seem to look better, but
to keep things simple for the first ring we will make a 3-lead ring.
For more information about Turk's Head Knots, Leads and
Bights go to www.golden-knots.com or
wiki on Turk's Head Knots.
Make sure all the pins are in the ring jig, and you have your wire ready.

Make a loop in one end of each wire just large enough to fit over
the anchor pin.

Loop the loops over the anchor pin, and run the wires up between
the pins as shown.

Bend the first wire down as shown and pull it tight using the clamp.

Repeat for the second wire, making sure it does not cross over the
first wire.
And repeat again for the third.

Continue bending the wires around the jig as shown ...


... until you get back to the start.
when the wires cross over if the wire is 'above' the pin the new wire
goes over the old wire.

When the wires cross over if the wire is 'below' the pin the new wire
goes under the old wire ...
(pic before the wire goes under)

push the spike under the old wire where the new wire should go, and
use it to make room for the new wire to pass through.

feed the wires through the gap made using the spike, remembering to
tighten each of the wires using the clamp.

continue weaving the wire along the ring jig, going over the old wire
when 'above' the pins and going under the old wire when 'under' the
pins, until the wire runs parallel to the first part of the wire.

You could now cut the wires and fold them over, or for a (IMHO)
better finish you could solder the wires together as shown.

Remove the pins from the jig.

optional: cover the ring on the jig with a leather glove...

and hammer lightly, (this is to flatten the weave of the ring).

cut the excess wire, bend over the ends and optionally solder the
ends in place.

Slide the ring down the tapered rod (pool cue) until it has stretched
the ring to fit the intended finger.

Enjoy your finished ring.

Please post comments and questions here.
Original URL: http://www.mailleartisans.org/articles/articledisplay.php?key=442

