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How to Join Half Persian 3-1 Sheet 5 to Make Square/Trianglemaille
Article © MAIL User: o_o_o

Squaremaille is 8 rows of Half Persian 3 Sheet 5 in 1 joined side to side to form a tube with 4 distinct sides and corners. (An 8 row sheet = 4 consecutive Half Persian 3 in 1 chains)
Image: squaremaille.jpg

Trianglemaille is 6 rows of HP 3-1 S5 joined side to side to form a tube with 3 distinct sides and corners. (6 rows = 3 consecutive HP 3-1 chains)
Image: trianglemaille.jpg

The chains in this tutorial were made using 18g (SWG) 7/32" rings (I've only tried this in aluminum, copper, and brass). These rings are tight enough to make the sheet sides curl together naturally, and produce a sleek weave that still has enough movement to create lovely bangles when joined end to end. Trianglemaille is tighter than Squaremaille. I'm sure that the classic 18g 1/4" ring size usually used to make HP 3-1 S5 will also work nicely.

In this tuorial, the ring you are threading into the other rings is called the ACTIVE ring. I used a copper ring to distinguish it in the images below.




1) For Squaremaille: Make a 7-row sheet of Half Persian 3 in 1 Sheet 5. We will join the sides using the 8th row rings.

For Trianglemaille: Make a 5-row sheet of Half Persian 3 in 1 Sheet 5. You will join the sides using the 6th row rings.

Image: 1-7rows.jpg
7 row sheet (3 1/2 consecutive Half Persian 3 in 1 chains)

TIP: If you are going to join the ends to make a bangle, do it BEFORE you join the sides. It's almost impossible to open and close rings after the sides are joined.

2) Flip the weave upside down ("furrow" side down). The sides should naturally curl up toward eachother to form the tube.

Image: 2-7rows-flip.jpg

TIP: Orient the weave so that the looser and more wobbly row of rings is closer to you. You ultimately want the two tips of the ACTIVE ring to end up on an outside corner of the tube so that they will be easier to grasp and join. If you keep the wobbly ring row side closer to you while threading the tube closed, both ends of the ACTIVE ring will end up right in front of you--allowing you to close them more easily.

3) When you open your ACTIVE jump ring, you want the right tip pulled down so that if you follow the ring from one tip to the other, it creates a downward, clockwise spiral (this is how all my jump rings always look when opened). This is the trick that makes joining easy because you will be threading the ACTIVE ring into the weave and turning it clockwise like a corkscrew--and it will naturally find the rings and spaces it needs to go through.

The tip at the top of the spiral (indicated in red) is the end that you will thread into the weave. The blue tip is the tail end of the ring that you hold with your pliers.

Image: 3-active-ring.jpg

4) As you spin your corkscrew ACTIVE ring, you will start from the outside of the wobbly row and thread it through a single ring (green 1), then through the eye of the two rings on the opposite side of the seam (pink 2), then back through the eye of the two rings to the right of the single ring you started from (blue 3).

Image: 4-rotate-demo.jpg
Example of a ring already in place.

Image: 5-prep-color-side.jpg
The rings into which you will be threading your ACTIVE ring.

5) Feed your ACTIVE ring into the single green ring on the wobbly row. This photo is misleading since the ACTIVE copper ring flopped over to the left when the photo was taken. In reality, you would be holding the blue tip with your fingers or pliers on the RIGHT side, at the open end of the seam.
Image: 6-1thread-color-side.jpg

6) Continue to spin the ring clockwise and feed it through the eye of the two pink rings on the opposite side of the seam. You can gently shift the receiving rings into place but the ACTIVE ring should go in easily without force of any kind. If you're pulling, pushing or squeezing, then you either don't have the ACTIVE ring oriented correctly or the rings in the sheet are woven improperly. It should go through easily.
Image: 7-2-3thread-color-side.jpg

7) Keep spinning the ACTIVE ring and slide it through the eye of the two blue rings on the first side of the seam. Once again, if you have to squeeze or force it, then one or more of the rings aren't woven properly.
Image: 8-4-5thread-color-side.jpg

9) Now close the ring!




This photo shows the relative thicknesses of squaremaille, trianglemaille, and an HP 3-1 chain with the same 18g 7/32" size rings.

Image: relative-heights.jpg

This weave lends itself particularly well to different color combinations. This one shows aluminum and copper rings woven in an AACCAACC pattern to create solid colored corners:
Image: square-samecorners.jpg

This one shows aluminum and copper rings woven in an ACCAACCA pattern to create solid colored sides.
Image: square-samesides.jpg

This shows trianglemaille with aluminum, brass, and copper woven in an AABBCC pattern to create solid colored corners:
Image: triangle-headon.jpg
Original URL: http://www.mailleartisans.org/articles/articledisplay.php?key=744